12m.

Rockfax Description
An action-packed pitch follows the thin crack splitting the bulges, it is often green. Protection is good but hard to place hence it is worth E5 for effort. Access the crack by a series of left-facing layback moves and sprint through the bulges. Things ease above, as long as you have a little puff left. © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1976

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 50 of the Best, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ashtond6 20 Aug Lead first go today
first go today
ashtond6 18 Aug Lead dog stupid fall after all the hard climbing, annoying...
stupid fall after all the hard climbing, annoying...
James Smith 18 Aug Lead G/U Super happy to get this 1st go today after being rained off last week. Was by far the best I had climbed on it so far and felt cruisy all the way! Psyched!! Placed all gear on lead and 4th go overall - first grit E5 and first grit E4 on-sight in one day!
with Jonny, Thu, Mike, melon, geoff
Super happy to get this 1st go today after being rained off last week. Was by far the best I had climbed on it so far and felt cruisy all the way! Psyched!! Placed all gear on lead and 4th go overall - first grit E5 and first grit E4 on-sight in one day!
with Jonny, Thu, Mike, melon, geoff
James Smith 11 Aug Lead dnf Such good climbing! Went for the flash after watching Thu and Mike work it on TR, fell at the bulge. Had two more goes falling at the bulge both times - 2nd effort should have done it but foot slip at the crucial moment denied me, 3rd was a rushed go as it started to pour down with rain...! Psyched for round 2!
with Thu, Mike, melon
Such good climbing! Went for the flash after watching Thu and Mike work it on TR, fell at the bulge. Had two more goes falling at the bulge both times - 2nd effort should have done it but foot slip at the crucial moment denied me, 3rd was a rushed go as it started to pour down with rain...! Psyched for round 2!
with Thu, Mike, melon
Gabe Oliver 17 Apr Lead dog Went back for the lead but still a bit beyond me I think to link it all together. Still, a nice little project to work on and if it was easy it wouldn't be hard!
Went back for the lead but still a bit beyond me I think to link it all together. Still, a nice little project to work on and if it was easy it wouldn't be hard!
Gabe Oliver 14 Apr TR rpt Took a couple of goes to figure out moves but eventually felt kinda do-able. Found some cool kneebar beta for the crux bulge. Sustained but good gear. Hopefully come back for the lead soon!
Took a couple of goes to figure out moves but eventually felt kinda do-able. Found some cool kneebar beta for the crux bulge. Sustained but good gear. Hopefully come back for the lead soon!
JCAshman 13 Apr Lead G/U Looked at this for ages in the book and it didn’t disappoint! There was a stuck wire in the higher finger crack which deffo made things a bit easier
Looked at this for ages in the book and it didn’t disappoint! There was a stuck wire in the higher finger crack which deffo made things a bit easier
dominic lee 23 Mar Lead rpt First done early eighties o/s.
with daniel lee
First done early eighties o/s.
with daniel lee
DMC 28 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Went for the onsight, fell just below the crux bulge. Got all the moves while working it and did it with one hang so I'll come back for the headpoint. I've led a few E4's but was completely not ready for the step up to E5, maybe I've reached the limit of my onsight grade.
Went for the onsight, fell just below the crux bulge. Got all the moves while working it and did it with one hang so I'll come back for the headpoint. I've led a few E4's but was completely not ready for the step up to E5, maybe I've reached the limit of my onsight grade.
Al Evans ??, 2018 2nd O/S first ascent
with gabriel regan
first ascent
with gabriel regan
pipof747 17 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
mrteale 14 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Had a few goes moving up, fixing gear before coming back down. Got higher and realised just how bloody hard it was going to be and sacked it off. Might be one to abseil and check out the gear for.
Had a few goes moving up, fixing gear before coming back down. Got higher and realised just how bloody hard it was going to be and sacked it off. Might be one to abseil and check out the gear for.
cragsman9000 3 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf
with bob_cbr
with bob_cbr
cragsman9000 3 Sep, 2017 TR dog
with bob_cbr
with bob_cbr
JBO 1 May, 2017 Lead β Abbed down to give it a clean and put some gear in, then it went first go. Poor style but the right decision for me in hindsight. Top end E5 if placing gear on lead, bottom end if pre-placed.
Abbed down to give it a clean and put some gear in, then it went first go. Poor style but the right decision for me in hindsight. Top end E5 if placing gear on lead, bottom end if pre-placed.
Hidden 22 Apr, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 2 Nov, 2016 Lead
Proddler 23 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf The mid-height crack was wet, no point continuing.
The mid-height crack was wet, no point continuing.
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
BenNorman 1 Apr, 2013 Solo RP Solo above a drift of snow but still very much a solo at the top, spicey! Chuffed
Solo above a drift of snow but still very much a solo at the top, spicey! Chuffed
Brown ?Apr, 2013 Solo Soloed above a snowdrift. Not one to fall off of. Previously led 16th May 2012 with Ryan
with Andy R
Soloed above a snowdrift. Not one to fall off of. Previously led 16th May 2012 with Ryan
with Andy R
Dave Musgrove Jnr ??, 2013 Lead G/U
hamer89 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S classic pump fest
classic pump fest
Ethan 12 May, 2012 Lead
with Ed, Sam, Al
with Ed, Sam, Al
Hannes B 6 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf
with al123
with al123
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Harry_Pymont 13 Nov, 2011 Lead rpt
AdamjBailes ??, 2011 Lead β
Adam Long 11 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S Solo above snowdrift! Brilliant.
with Katy Whittaker, Ned Feehally, Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
Solo above snowdrift! Brilliant.
with Katy Whittaker, Ned Feehally, Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Sep, 2009 2nd dog
malx ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??, 2009 Lead rpt fell, pulled ropes then clean
with aiden
fell, pulled ropes then clean
with aiden
Hidden 1 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 17 Apr, 2007 Lead clean after 1 fall
with JulesV
clean after 1 fall
with JulesV
mark s 29 Jan, 2006 Lead RP
Boy ??, 2006 -
johnboyrevel ?May, 2005 2nd dog Gear was stuck
with Spider
Gear was stuck
with Spider
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2002 Lead RP
Ben Bransby 22 Sep, 2001 Lead
goi.ashmore 23 Aug, 2000 Lead RP
with Kaspar Martin
with Kaspar Martin
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 6 Aug, 1995 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 1995 2nd
keefe ??, 1993 -
robyn1 ??, 1992 -
Hidden 21 May, 1991 Lead β
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set