UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the technical wall to a rest in the niche then reach up and start an excellent sequence of cross-throughs until the lower-off of Secret Gudgeon is reached well to the right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The direct finish is Superbeef, heading direct from the the post crux rest instead of traversing off right at the break.

FA. Mark Pretty 1987.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak limestone north graded list - sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
193 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: No more than 7a+ if compared to the others of that grade on this crag
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No more than 7a+ if compared to the others of that grade on this crag
Neil Binns 7 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Has been rebolted
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has been rebolted

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rite of Way

Grade: 7b ***
(Winnats Pass)

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