UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The flake is now climbed direct all the way as when the route was first done. At its top, move left and pull up the headwall. There is a poor left-hand finish through the bulges. Slightly easier than the version starting up Beef It but still 7a+. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Lee, Adam Haynes (as an E6 6b) 1982. It was bolted in the mid-90s with a start up Hungry Eyes. Fully bolted in 2020. The flake-line was formerly an aid route..

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Lime Time , The Festival Of Shite , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Clare Dean 26 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Using left-hand bolt line up the crack before traversing right to gain the rest at the thread. Probably makes it a little easier this way but required a bit of cleaning and careful selection of holds to avoid choss.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Using left-hand bolt line up the crack before traversing right to gain the rest at the thread. Probably makes it a little easier this way but required a bit of cleaning and careful selection of holds to avoid choss.
teddy 19 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Now tree has been chopped might be worth reinstating original start as this is the more logical line up the crack. This would mean the end of interference with climbers on Beef it, with which it currently shares the same start (evident of busy weekends). A couple of new bolts would prob be enough...
Show beta
βeta: Now tree has been chopped might be worth reinstating original start as this is the more logical line up the crack. This would mean the end of interference with climbers on Beef it, with which it currently shares the same start (evident of busy weekends). A couple of new bolts would prob be enough...

Logged Ascents

392 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 42 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whose Line is it Anyway?

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

Loading Notifications...