UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A great climb on perfect rock which is one of the best sport routes in the dale. The move off a pocket above the bulge proves to be a stopper for some, especially those who are a little on the short side. Harder than it used to be due to loss of holds. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1981.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic UK F7s , World Graded List , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
KGshoots 1 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Height dependent crux, desperate move of two small sidepulls.
Show beta
βeta: Height dependent crux, desperate move of two small sidepulls.
goi.ashmore 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Definately Fr7b for anyone at 5 10 or less
Show beta
βeta: Definately Fr7b for anyone at 5 10 or less
Andy Farnell 18 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It's hard 7a+ even if your under 6ft, just get your feet higher to make the reach. The big rest before the last trickyish moves mean it's not sustained enough to warrant 7b.
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βeta: It's hard 7a+ even if your under 6ft, just get your feet higher to make the reach. The big rest before the last trickyish moves mean it's not sustained enough to warrant 7b.
Sam Ring 15 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: With the big rest after the bulge it just isn't sustained enough to be 7b.
Show beta
βeta: With the big rest after the bulge it just isn't sustained enough to be 7b.
Tyler 4 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Seems like 7b to me. Run out at the top
βeta?
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βeta: Seems like 7b to me. Run out at the top
carl dawson 11 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: And how tall is Lee!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And how tall is Lee!!!
Ian Patterson 23 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Re-equipped by someone with 4 bolts matching the original placments.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Re-equipped by someone with 4 bolts matching the original placments.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rite of Way

Grade: 7b ***
(Winnats Pass)

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