UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A classic route from the 70s which gives a great companion to Countdown. The bouldery wall leads to a hanging groove where a poor rest is possible. Move back left and up to the lower-off. Pitch 2 is described with the Upper Tier. © Rockfax

FA. Gabriel Reagan, Al Evans 1976. Both pitches were done with a point of aid on P2. P1 was harder than anything else around at the time..

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Peak sport for mortals , Lime trad for hobbyists , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
dig26 17 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rusty chains and tat could probably do with replacing! Clipped the peg in the last overhang to reduce diagonal run-out to the chains. Nice route that!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rusty chains and tat could probably do with replacing! Clipped the peg in the last overhang to reduce diagonal run-out to the chains. Nice route that!
Ian Patterson 23 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Regeared by someone, with 5 bolts and a rusty stuck wire in the groove. Now does make a good 7a with a bouldery start and hard travese at the top. Worth a couple of stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Regeared by someone, with 5 bolts and a rusty stuck wire in the groove. Now does make a good 7a with a bouldery start and hard travese at the top. Worth a couple of stars.

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Handy Wallhole

Grade: 7a ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))

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