UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

15m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Esmerelda, but trend right to the break and a rest on the right. Traverse strenuously back left along the lip then up to gain a stuck-on hold in a faint groove. Fight back right from this to follow the large flake to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best routes on this section up the right-hand side pillar then out to some surprising holds on the upper wall. Has lost holds and may now be harder.

Gary Gibson 1998.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak Lime new and re-equipped routes , The Festival Of Shite , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
stp 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt is very high and not easy to get to (about 5c) or to clip. Although the landing is good most people prefer to stick clip it. Really needs a lower bolt added.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first bolt is very high and not easy to get to (about 5c) or to clip. Although the landing is good most people prefer to stick clip it. Really needs a lower bolt added.
Seb Grieve 24 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Its a manufactured route! There are 2 painful glued on non original side pulls after the jugs. The holds are made from two pieces of random stone picked up off the floor and glued on to the rock.
Show beta
βeta: Its a manufactured route! There are 2 painful glued on non original side pulls after the jugs. The holds are made from two pieces of random stone picked up off the floor and glued on to the rock.

Logged Ascents

111 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 23 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bored of the Lies

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

Loading Notifications...