UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

15m.

Rockfax Description
A great route which is probably worth 7c for the short. The initial wall is technical and the break gives only a poor rest. Steeper ground above leads to a final thin wall. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Nadin 1986.

Ticklists

Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , World Graded List , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , James' Summer Ticklist , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Owen Diba 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The flake above the roof has snapped to leave a sharp sidepull crimp. Next few moves still OK but I imagine this will consolidate its 7c grade.
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βeta: The flake above the roof has snapped to leave a sharp sidepull crimp. Next few moves still OK but I imagine this will consolidate its 7c grade.
Max Lowry 29 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt 7C to me, was harder than celebration and lightweight .
βeta?
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βeta: Felt 7C to me, was harder than celebration and lightweight .
craig d 9 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. 7C for me without a doubt. I can see why taller climbers would think 7B+.
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βeta: Great route. 7C for me without a doubt. I can see why taller climbers would think 7B+.
Guy Maccdox 1 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What's the story behind the route name?
βeta?
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βeta: What's the story behind the route name?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bored of the Lies

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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