A serious route that requires good judgement and a cool head. The route seeps for long periods after rainfall, although the alternative direct variation on the second pitch does dry a little quicker but it is no less serious. Start at a large metal ring at the very base of the crag.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb up leftwards to a long chain which is used for protection but not as a means of ascent! Belay at the rock ring holding the chain.
2) 4c, 13m. Climb up onto a ledge and then step up to another ledge on the right below a leaning wall. Traverse out right along the ledge to a groove and a good small nut-placement. Move up the groove to good holds, and then traverse back left along a large vegetated ramp to its end and move up to a large belay ledge. Very bold.
2a) E1 5a, 8m. A variation takes the direct line to the second stance past a poor peg, also bold.
3) 4b, 12m. Move rightwards to the base of a line that cuts back left and up a diagonal crack to the top in a fine position. © Rockfax
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