UKC

Restricted Access

The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the  blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage. 

You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.  

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A good pitch with a very blind crux. © Rockfax

FA. Guy Dixon 17/Sep/1995.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rockmonkey1977 7 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The large block (where it’s possible to have a reasonable shake out rest) after the moves leftwards, sounds very hollow. Some pre-emptive sika maybe worthwhile. If I ever log back in to Facebook I’ll ping the Dorset Bolt fund…
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The large block (where it’s possible to have a reasonable shake out rest) after the moves leftwards, sounds very hollow. Some pre-emptive sika maybe worthwhile. If I ever log back in to Facebook I’ll ping the Dorset Bolt fund…

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mark of the Beast

Grade: 7c ***
(Lulworth)

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