The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.
Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage.
You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.
Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.
A good pitch on excellent rock that follows the right-hand side of the face. Approach using the fixed rope. © Rockfax
FA. Rob Kennard 23/Jan/2011.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+
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