Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
Climb straight up the wall right of the arete, starting from the head-height crimps. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starting at the mid height crimps on the face make a left hand move to a square block crimp above and then rock up on glassy feet to poor holds in the middle of the wall. Either gain two holds in the middle of the wall (slightly harder) or gain the penultimate hold of Big Bird ArĂȘte Start, both finish in the borehole, traverse to the ledge atop the arete at your leisure. The arete on the left is eliminated.
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Grade: f6C ***
(Red Dragon Ridge Boulders)