Stylish and committing climbing requiring good technique and a set of strong fingers and biceps. Start just left of the cave, below a ledge at 3m.1) 5b, 15m. Boulder to a ledge at 3m and move up the technical wall above it to a sloping hold and nut. Continue up the wall and through the narrowing groove to a stance on a prow under a steep crack.2) 5a, 10m. Climb up the steep crack behind the belay and then traverse wildly rightwards using a conspicuous block around the arete to finish direct on good holds. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968.
West Country Climbs
The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9
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Grade: E1 5b ***
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