Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
Rockfax Description
As for Macca's Route but with your left hand in the good pocket on the slab. Bridge up to a good hold above the second bolt and then move to the arete. Ascend the arete, crack and final wall on the right to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Macca's Route but get your left hand in the good pocket. Bridge up to a jug above the second bolt and move to the arête (the arête itself can be climbed but is inferior). Follow this and the crack until a step right at the horizontal break leads to good holds. Finish steeply up the wall just right of the rubble-filled fissure.
FA. Tom Rainbow 2014.
Ticklists
Devon Sport 4's - 6b's , Devon 6's
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Puppy On-sight
Grade: 6b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)