Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
Rockfax Description
A nice pitch up the right side of the overhang-capped corner and crack above to a tough finishing sequence left to reach a lower-off shared with Powderfinger. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the tricky arête on its right-hand side to the high(ish) bolt (can be pre-clipped from the ledge to the left by the nervous). Climb more easily to gain the crack which is followed steeply to its end at a flat hold in a horizontal break. Move up with difficulty to the circular hollow feature then reach left to the lower-off of Powderfinger.
FA. Tom Rainbow 2014.
Ticklists
Devon Sport 4's - 6b's , Devon 6's
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Churston Quarries
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Puppy On-sight
Grade: 6b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)