The classic route of the face is a fine climb which follows the crack and chimney systems in the centre of Cima Catinaccio.
Start in the centre of the east face, below and left of the line of cracks which split the face by a right-trending ramp.
1) II, 45m. Follow easy ground right to a good stance, just left of a yellow corner.
2) IV+, 20m. Step right and climb the corner to half-height, then exit left following cracks diagonally, ignoring a second corner.
3) V, 30m. Climb right to enter another yellow corner and climb this past a chockstone before traversing left to a good stance below a niche.
4) VI-, 20m. Climb up to the niche and exit it on the right on good holds, then climb direct up a well-pegged crack to a stance in the crack-line.
5) V, 35m. Make an easy but quite exposed traverse right to enter a chimney. Climb this and overcome a roof on its left to reach a stance below a corner.
6) IV-, 50m. Don't climb the corner; instead traverse back left to re-enter the crack system, then climb this as it widens to a chimney to reach a stance by a small pillar below a yellow corner.
7) IV+, 35m. Climb direct for a few metres then follow a ramp right before a diagonal crack in the same line leads to a good stance by a detached flake.
8) IV+, 30m. Climb the flake and the crack above. Avoid a corner by moving easily left then direct before a ramp leads back right.
9) V, 40m. Climb a crack direct then exit left onto the face. Climb this, avoiding a small bulge on its left, then direct to a good thread belay.
10) IV+, 45m. Move right then climb direct to rejoin the crack system. Follow this into a continuation chimney and climb this to a spike belay.
11) IV, 45m. Follow easier and blocky ground right then back left, then climb a chimney past a large chockstone.
12) IV, 35m. Continue easily in the chimney, climb a crack above then follow an easy ramp left to a stance in the crack.
13) V+, 35m. Continue following the crack direct with some stiff but well-protected moves to a good ledge.
14) IV, 45m. Follow a ramp rightwards to a good ledge below a yellow crack.
15) IV, 20m. Continue rightwards up the ramp, broken by a short chimney, then move right to a stance below a well-pegged crack.
16) V, 30m. Climb the short crack diagonally right then continue direct to belay below a prominent chimney.
17) V+, 30m. Climb the flared chimney to a stance on the left.
18) III, 50m. Follow easier ground direct then diagonally left up a wide chimney.
19) II, 45m. Climb the spur above direct.
20) II, 50m. Continue easily in the same line to reach the summit ridge.
21) I, 70m. Follow the ridge easily to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
East Face. Following the center of the 650 meter east face via Parallel cracks. This long - and thus strenuous and sustained, route offers plenty of great, and varied climbing, from the steep corner right at the start to the tricky yellow wall (overhang) at the end. Based On solid and well pegged rock.
6-7 hours + descent
UIAA VI- A0
More infomation In Extreme Alpine Rock.
Hans Steger, Paula Wiesinger, Fred Mas? Dari, Siegfried Lechner. Aug/1929.
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