UKC

Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route that is perfect for those beginning their Dolomite multi-pitch experience. Although perhaps undeserving of its classic status, it is nonetheless a good route, featuring one hard move on the second pitch.
Start at the highest point of the scree on the left side of the southwest face, under a prominent red niche.
1) IV-, 20m. Climb direct for a few metres into the niche, then move right before continuing direct to reach the line of horizontal roofs. Belay on the right.
2) IV+, 20m. Continue right under the roofs to a break, then climb direct, pulling through a bulge then climb the crack above to belay below an indistinct chimney.
3) III+, 40m. Climb the chimney then continue between two flakes. Where the rock becomes yellower, climb diagonally right below a roof.
4) IV, 30m. Move back left to pull through the bulge then climb direct to a ramp. Follow this left then climb a harder short crack.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb to the left of a loose chimney then follow a ledge right. Climb diagonally left then direct to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch trad route - 4,3,4,3. Popular but disappointing

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch

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User Date Notes
Hog Dog 3 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: After the first set of abs, head east down the gully to the east (search extensively for anchor), not south down the giant crack through the towers - lots of scary loose rocks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After the first set of abs, head east down the gully to the east (search extensively for anchor), not south down the giant crack through the towers - lots of scary loose rocks!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
East Face

Grade: IV+ ***
(Vallon)

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