One of the older climbs up the huge curving groove on the right side of the buttress. Something of a traditional thrutch, where crimping ability is never required - wall rats will have a humbling experience. Start on the right-hand side of the pedestal.1) 4c, 10m. Climb the huge flake to the top of the pedestal via laybacks or jamming.2) 4c, 20m. Swing left on a jug into the corner-chimney. Thrutch up the crack with a variety of off-width techniques past a steeper more awkward section. Belay on a ledge out left as for Vember.3) 4c, 35m. Move back into the corner and bridge wildly up, moving back into the depths to arrange protection. Follow this until the right wall starts to form a slab. Move up this before finally gaining the fantastically exposed arete. Finish up this on good holds to a grassy ledge and belay. Scramble out to finish. © Rockfax
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gwern Graig Rock)
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