Rockfax Description
A hard groove climb with tenuous gear. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft.
1) 4b, 20m Scramble across easy ground to a block and traverse right to a ledge below the narrow slabby corner. Continue down and right to below the next narrow slab.
2) 5b, 20m. Make a hard move to enter the base of the groove from the left. Climb the groove to a bulge, go round this on its left to then move back right to a ledge and belay shared with White Slab.
3) 5b, 40m. Climb boldly up the groove to a runner at about 10m. Make a delicate and challenging traverse left to the arete. Climb this to eventually join Longland's Climb which leads to the crevassed stance.
4) 4c, 25m. As for Longland's Climb. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply over the overhang on good but spaced holds. Then move right into a chimney. Climbing up this leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Feedback Always Hide βeta