Rockfax Description
One of the UK's milestone routes for any aspiring hard climber. It traces a majestic line up this stunning wall with initially technical climbing giving way to easier (but bolder) moves higher up. Start on a grassy terrace below the high groove of Daurigol and to the right of some thin cracks that lead up the left-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up to a small overlap below a line of cracks. Climb these up and rightwards with difficulty until a reach gains a crack. Pull up into a depression to belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Climb up the crack and then a corner above (becoming thin on gear) to a left-facing groove and overlap. A memorable long move to a good hold leads quickly to a long ledge. Traverse right along this and back left to easier ground. © Rockfax
15 Climbs to do before you die , Hard Rock , Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Good E4s , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 2019 Targets , Hard Rock 2020 , World Class Britain & Ireland , Hard Rock 2020 , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime
User | Date | Notes | ||
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LucaC | 10 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The convenient abseil point above Indian Face could do with a refresh and requires some large wires, new tat and a maillion. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The convenient abseil point above Indian Face could do with a refresh and requires some large wires, new tat and a maillion. |
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Butel | 23 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Stuck brassy there that is not in good condition, i wouldn\'t trust it. | ||
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βeta: Stuck brassy there that is not in good condition, i wouldn't trust it. |
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Tony Marr |
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βeta: Fine lead by Johnny. A superb climb with your best friend...good memories! | βeta? | ||
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βeta: Fine lead by Johnny. A superb climb with your best friend...good memories! |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach))