126m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft.
1) 15m. Scramble across easy ground to a block and traverse right to a ledge below the narrow slabby corner.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb the slabby corner to a belay in the base of the widening chimney-crack.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better) to a belay on the right.
4) 35m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a crevassed ledge on the right.
5) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply over the overhang on good but spaced holds. Then move right into a chimney. Climbing up this leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, exposed climbing after a wet and loose start. First main slab pitch very long to get a stance with decent belays (35m) just by the 'Faith and Friction' bit.

JL Longland, AS Pigott, FS Smythe, W Eversden, M Wood May/1928.


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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 45
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kirkus's Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig Lloer)

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