A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft.
1) 20m. Scramble across easy ground to a block and traverse right to a ledge below the narrow slabby corner.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb the slabby corner to a belay in the base of the widening chimney-crack.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better) to a belay on the right.
4) 35m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a crevassed ledge on the right.
5) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply over the overhang on good but space holds. Then move right into and up a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, exposed climbing after a wet and loose start. First main slab pitch very long to get a stance with decent belays (35m) just by the 'Faith and Friction' bit.
JL Longland, AS Pigott, FS Smythe, W Eversden, M Wood May/1928.
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, High Quality Adventure routes, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, 2021
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