A great corner-climb, and as well-positioned as you would expect for this wall. The approach scramble across steep grass needs some care. It is best reached from below by routes in the Pigott's Climb Area (see page 138 ). Start below the prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the right-hand crack to a stance in the chimney.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to an overhang, heave around this with difficulty, then another pokey section leads back into the crack above. A brutal fight up this on rattly jams leads to easier climbing up to the grassy ledge on the right. Scramble off easily right to escape. © Rockfax
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