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Rockfax Description
A superbly-positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. It is steep, well protected and has plenty of rests. Start about 12m right of the abseil, where a pinnacle rests against the overhangs.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up the left side of the pinnacle and traverse left below a steepening for 3m to reach a thin crack. Tricky moves up this lead to a stance on ledges above.
2) 5b, 28m. Follow the groove above and pull round the overhang with interest to good holds on the left. These now lead out leftwards towards the arete. Climb up for a few metres before a delicate traverse leads back to the main crack. The crack is short and steep but thankfully blessed with huge holds and spike runners. At its top there is a ledge, traverse out left again to the arete. Climb up before making a few tricky moves back right. A couple of steep and intimidating moves on buckets lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the superb steep wall via a weaving route on good holds.
P1 Climb the left side of the pillar then traverse left to a thin crack which increases in difficulty where a hard move gains good holds then the belay ledge.
P2 Jam up the crack to a widening, then traverse left to another crack, climb up then move back right into the original crack. This is climbed until a leftwards traverse leads to the arete for a few moves, then take the wall on the right past spaced gear to the top and hopefully the warmth of the sun.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, North Wales jaunt

Feedback

User Date Notes
barny 1984 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route - Kevin cruised P1, then I had to make hard moves off the belay to start P2, and the wall above you impends, and you wonder what’s going to happen, but the holds are good and you can just keep going, until there’s a roar and a fast jet buzzes you - you get over the top to a fantastic sunset. Do it. No way this is E2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route - Kevin cruised P1, then I had to make hard moves off the belay to start P2, and the wall above you impends, and you wonder what’s going to happen, but the holds are good and you can just keep going, until there’s a roar and a fast jet buzzes you - you get over the top to a fantastic sunset. Do it. No way this is E2.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 43
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Thing

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)