A superbly-positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. It is steep, well protected and has plenty of rests. Start about 12m right of the abseil, where a pinnacle rests against the overhangs.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up the left side of the pinnacle and traverse left below a steepening for 3m to reach a thin crack. Tricky moves up this lead to a stance on ledges above.
2) 5b, 28m. Follow the groove above and pull round the overhang with interest to good holds on the left. These now lead out leftwards towards the arete. Climb up for a few metres before a delicate traverse leads back to the main crack. The crack is short and steep but thankfully blessed with huge holds and spike runners. At its top there is a ledge. From here, traverse out left again to the arete. Climb up before making a few tricky moves back right. A couple of steep and intimidating moves on buckets lead to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the superb steep wall via a weaving route on good holds.
P1 Climb the left side of the pillar then traverse left to a thin crack which increases in difficulty where a hard move gains good holds then the belay ledge.
P2 Jam up the crack to a widening, then traverse left to another crack, climb up then move back right into the original crack. This is climbed until a leftwards traverse leads to the arete for a few moves, then take the wall on the right past spaced gear to the top and hopefully the warmth of the sun.
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