UKC

74m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great and popular climb up a series of ribs on the left-hand side of the buttress. Start at the base of a chimney that leads up to the base of Nea.
1) 4b, 15m. On the left wall are two parallel cracks. Climb them to a niche, then step into the right crack. Continue past a tree and belay on the ledge.
2) 4c, 12m. Step up the groove onto a sloping ledge and traverse right to the arete (good cams in break). Move up onto the ledge right on the edge of the arete, (1.5 cam) on the left and a series of micro wires help get you onto the left side of the rib. Move up the left side of the rib using small holds and balancy climbing until you can move back to the right just below the top. Go up an earthy bank to a belay on a holly tree on the left.
3) 4b, 18m. Move right across the ledge and climb up stepped slabby rock to below a prominent corner. Follow the corner until you are forced to make a step right to below a hanging groove. Follow the groove in the arete to the large sloping ledge. Either belay here, or continue up P4 to the top.
4) 4a, 15m. Shuffle right along the sloping ledge to a corner on the right. Step back left then climb straight up to the large ledge (belay/abseil on a tree to the left). © Rockfax

Ticklists

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User Date Notes
R_Jo89 14 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Abbed off after p2 due to impending bbq
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abbed off after p2 due to impending bbq
R_Jo89 14 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Abbed off after p2 due to impending bbq
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abbed off after p2 due to impending bbq
Simon Caldwell 20 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: In situ rope and krab allow you to do the 5th pitch and ab off. 50m doubles get you to the top of p2 but only just!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ rope and krab allow you to do the 5th pitch and ab off. 50m doubles get you to the top of p2 but only just!

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pinky

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns))

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