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Rockfax Description
Short but steep. The crux holds on the headwall sometimes seep. Climb the groove (surprisingly awkward) to the overhang. Pass this on the right to reach a good rest before the crux. Blast past the crack above to reach Kaisergebirge Wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist

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User Date Notes
Mark Warnett Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nearly came off the bottom groove, not sure why but was slightly worrying. Got to the ledge which is a hands off, and them when up and down getting about 8 bombers in(!), with a totem as the top gear in crack. Went back for a rest. Committed to the sequence with bone dry holds (which i suspect makes a big difference), but high foot popped reaching for the next ledge at end crux sequence and took a small fall onto totem (which of course held). Annoyingly i missed an obvious intermediate finger jug. Part of me thinks its not as hard as its reputation (if crux holds dry) because you get a complete hands off rest before the crux so its not pumpy and moves not that bad, sequence readable if you don't miss the obvious holds. Then again i fell off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nearly came off the bottom groove, not sure why but was slightly worrying. Got to the ledge which is a hands off, and them when up and down getting about 8 bombers in(!), with a totem as the top gear in crack. Went back for a rest. Committed to the sequence with bone dry holds (which i suspect makes a big difference), but high foot popped reaching for the next ledge at end crux sequence and took a small fall onto totem (which of course held). Annoyingly i missed an obvious intermediate finger jug. Part of me thinks its not as hard as its reputation (if crux holds dry) because you get a complete hands off rest before the crux so its not pumpy and moves not that bad, sequence readable if you don't miss the obvious holds. Then again i fell off.

Logged Ascents

270 users have logged this
21 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 55
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Jugs Mawr

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)