The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress..
1) 4c, 28m. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.
2) 5a, 28m. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.
3) 5a, 10m. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above.
4) Finish as for P3 of Nea. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Michelle's crack ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, North Wales HVS, Definitive *** Llanberis, 2021
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