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Rockfax Description
The monstrous third pitch is good value HVS. Start at the toe of the left-hand buttress.
1) 4c, 28m. Climb the slab to gain the thin crack. Follow this up to a small ledge on the right. Head straight up to the right-hand end of the large ledge that Nea starts from, and traverse rightwards below the holly tree. Then climb easily up to a ledge and belay below an open groove.
2) 5a, 28m. Follow the crack up the back of the groove. This proves a bit of a tussle until stood on a sloping ledge about 8m up. From here, make a puzzling traverse up and left around the arete to finally pull onto the slab above. Head up and right to a large flake and belay below an intimidating wide slot.
3) 5a, 10m. If you have planned ahead, then this is your mate's lead! Move up to the slot where a long sling and basketball skills will allow you to thread the chockstone from below. Prepare for battle and wade into the wide crack. Having succeeded it still requires a steady head to continue up the fist-crack to the ledge above.
4) Finish as for P3 of Nea. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Michelle's crack ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, North Wales HVS, Definitive *** Llanberis

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 151
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 149
Votes cast 145
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Meshach

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))