UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
An impressive pitch up the blunt arete. The start has changed (due to rockfall) but is now possible via a powerful campus style sequence. A long stickclip is needed for the first bolt which is very high. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 12/Apr/1991.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
just one more 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First staple is on the move, watch the outward pull when belaying
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First staple is on the move, watch the outward pull when belaying
Emilio Bachini 11 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bring your brave pants or a clip stick for the first bolt, not hard climbing but you wouldn't want something to break because you'd soon follow suit. Some attention when pulling your rope depending on the tide might save you from a wet rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bring your brave pants or a clip stick for the first bolt, not hard climbing but you wouldn't want something to break because you'd soon follow suit. Some attention when pulling your rope depending on the tide might save you from a wet rope.
nealh 2 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nice steady coastgaurd 7a not sure where the 7a+ came from
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice steady coastgaurd 7a not sure where the 7a+ came from
Strontium Dog 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Three stars! Good climbing, sustained all the way, great setting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Three stars! Good climbing, sustained all the way, great setting.
tomrainbow 3 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best routes at Portland, surely this should have been given 3 stars in the new guide?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best routes at Portland, surely this should have been given 3 stars in the new guide?
marky 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route but needs another bolt in the start. Somebody will fall off the move to 1st bolt and break a leg!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route but needs another bolt in the start. Somebody will fall off the move to 1st bolt and break a leg!
Alan James - UKC and UKH 2 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Superb moves but the dusty holds can make it desperate in the wrong conditions. Keep going on the last move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb moves but the dusty holds can make it desperate in the wrong conditions. Keep going on the last move.

Logged Ascents

70 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Coastguard South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 58 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Victims of Fashion

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Edge)

Loading Notifications...