UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on www.peakbouldering.info (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

Rockfax Description
From the ledge, powerful moves on slots and slopers gain jugs. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the ledge, powerful moves on slots and slopers eventually gain jugs.

Ned Feehally Aug/2011.

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Renegade Master

Grade: f7C+ ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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