Restricted Access

The crag is located on open access land so there is a legal right of access for climbing at the crag itself. However access problems have arisen in the past when climbers cut across fields on the quickest approach with does not cross Open Access land, but instead relies upon linear rights of way. This angered the farmer at Conies Farm due to damage to dry stone walls from people climbing over them and his attitude to climbers remains negative. Avoid confrontation with the farmer by accessing the crag via the very slightly longer route through Oxlow Rake rather than through Conies Farm (see 'parking and approach' below for more info).

The crag is characterised by non-eliminate climbing on good rock. Holds are mostly weathered features - slopers, pinches, crimps - a refreshing change from the usual rattly Peak limestone. Great landings - mostly flat and grassy and lots of link ups possible. More details on (when it is functional). There are problems on either side of those documented in Peak Limestone North, but these are poor quality and best avoided for ecological reasons.

Rockfax Description
From a right hand undercut just above the break, reach a slopey pinch and trend left to crimps and slots and a big slap up and left to a good hold. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From an undercut (right hand) just above the break reach a slopey pinch and trend left to crimps and slots and a big slap up and left to a good hold.

Ned Feehally Aug/2011.


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High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Egyptian Feet

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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