The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A big adventure that should not be underestimated. Start just left of the tree below a ramp at 8m. 1) 6b, 23m. Climb the deceptively difficult wall (peg at the start of the ramp), and move up to the top of the ramp (bolt). A series of hard moves past a peg and bulge (sometimes wet) are rewarded with a bolt. Move left around the arete (bolt) then climb the tricky wall above to the break and belay (old pegs backed up with good cams).2) 5c, 18m. Traverse left to the steep finishing groove of Friday the Thirteenth. © Rockfax
FA. John Moulding, N.Jowett, Steve Boyden May/1984.
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Craig Arthur)