Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
This sustained route follows the left-hand side of the superb grey sheet of rock. Start as for the first pitch of Eliminator. Move up, as for Eliminator, then break right on a subtle line across slabby grey rock (peg) to a bulge. Climb up and then back right, with more difficulty, to an overhang and thread (possible stance). Pull up left through the overhang, via a crack, to reach a small tree. Easier ground leads to a large rounded scoop (loose). Follow this to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Stuart Cathcart, Tom Curtis 3.5.80 03/May/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mike Raine | 24 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Good climbing But felt like 5c to me too | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good climbing But felt like 5c to me too |
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| jim jones | 18 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Probably a bit of a sandbag at the original grade of E1. E2 5b seems about right, a good route which requires typical Clwyd care! Actually only 30m, done in one pitch according to the halfway marks on our ropes. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Probably a bit of a sandbag at the original grade of E1. E2 5b seems about right, a good route which requires typical Clwyd care! Actually only 30m, done in one pitch according to the halfway marks on our ropes. |
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| Nj | 21 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: We pulled a block off the top pitch which rolled all the way down to the valley floor and killed a cow...in 1989. I am only now getting over it! Hehe | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: We pulled a block off the top pitch which rolled all the way down to the valley floor and killed a cow...in 1989. I am only now getting over it! Hehe |
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| Paul Evans | 19 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: A little tough for E1. Start also quite bold. Top bit is scrappy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A little tough for E1. Start also quite bold. Top bit is scrappy. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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Tearg Wall
Grade: E2 5c ***
(World's End)