Rockfax Description
A reasonable route that has an energy-sapping first pitch. Start below the corner.
1) 4c, 20m. Ascend the corner, strenuously in places, to a belay on the right.
2) 4a, 25m. Move up the wall to gain the right-trending ramp that leads to a slab. Follow this to the foot of a crack on the left. Climb the slab and crack up left to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Crack Climbing , Bwlch Y Moch Starred VS Challenge 2024
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dinodinosaur | 11 Aug |
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βeta: Approach in serious need of gardening/napalming. Did some nutkey gardening on route so there's less brambles and the sapling isn't in the way at the start anymore but this could do with more traffic. If it was clean it would definitely be a 2* route. There's probably potential for abseiling straight onto the mini ledge where the route starts which may be move favourable than the scramble atm. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Approach in serious need of gardening/napalming. Did some nutkey gardening on route so there's less brambles and the sapling isn't in the way at the start anymore but this could do with more traffic. If it was clean it would definitely be a 2* route. There's probably potential for abseiling straight onto the mini ledge where the route starts which may be move favourable than the scramble atm. |
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| Afell | 20 Apr |
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βeta: A lovely nature experience with plenty of bird life, plant life and brambles - finding first pitch more tiring than climbing it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A lovely nature experience with plenty of bird life, plant life and brambles - finding first pitch more tiring than climbing it. |
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| Butel | 24 Apr, 2024 |
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βeta: Birds nesting on second pitch. I know this because one flew out across my arm. Super overgrown on second pitch. Full of brambles and green. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting on second pitch. I know this because one flew out across my arm. Super overgrown on second pitch. Full of brambles and green. |
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| dang99 | 17 Jan, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Finding the start to this was a mission. First attempt we arrived at kestrel crack - didnt go far enough left (looking at the crag). Thankfully brm spotted that this crack wasn't the right one. To get to Claptons, go down from kestrel and towards Eric's cafe for about 10-20 metres before heading up to some large boulders with one iron rung. The boulders are just to the right of the greenery heading up the face. (we roped up at this point as it is about Diff and would be easy to skid off in approach shoes). Ascend the iron rung and head up and left to reach the base of Claptons (25 metres ish). The route was good but strenuous. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Finding the start to this was a mission. First attempt we arrived at kestrel crack - didnt go far enough left (looking at the crag). Thankfully brm spotted that this crack wasn't the right one. To get to Claptons, go down from kestrel and towards Eric's cafe for about 10-20 metres before heading up to some large boulders with one iron rung. The boulders are just to the right of the greenery heading up the face. (we roped up at this point as it is about Diff and would be easy to skid off in approach shoes). Ascend the iron rung and head up and left to reach the base of Claptons (25 metres ish). The route was good but strenuous. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
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Dives / Sabre Cut
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)