UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A reasonable route that has an energy-sapping first pitch. Start below the corner.
1) 4c, 20m. Ascend the corner, strenuously in places, to a belay on the right.
2) 4a, 25m. Move up the wall to gain the right-trending ramp that leads to a slab. Follow this to the foot of a crack on the left. Climb the slab and crack up left to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Craig Bwlch y Moch Starred VS Challenge , Michelle's crack ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Butel 24 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Birds nesting on second pitch. I know this because one flew out across my arm. Super overgrown on second pitch. Full of brambles and green.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Birds nesting on second pitch. I know this because one flew out across my arm. Super overgrown on second pitch. Full of brambles and green.
dang99 17 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Finding the start to this was a mission. First attempt we arrived at kestrel crack - didnt go far enough left (looking at the crag). Thankfully brm spotted that this crack wasn't the right one. To get to Claptons, go down from kestrel and towards Eric's cafe for about 10-20 metres before heading up to some large boulders with one iron rung. The boulders are just to the right of the greenery heading up the face. (we roped up at this point as it is about Diff and would be easy to skid off in approach shoes). Ascend the iron rung and head up and left to reach the base of Claptons (25 metres ish). The route was good but strenuous.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finding the start to this was a mission. First attempt we arrived at kestrel crack - didnt go far enough left (looking at the crag). Thankfully brm spotted that this crack wasn't the right one. To get to Claptons, go down from kestrel and towards Eric's cafe for about 10-20 metres before heading up to some large boulders with one iron rung. The boulders are just to the right of the greenery heading up the face. (we roped up at this point as it is about Diff and would be easy to skid off in approach shoes). Ascend the iron rung and head up and left to reach the base of Claptons (25 metres ish). The route was good but strenuous.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 67
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shadow Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Wastad)

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