UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
Delightful slab climbing on rough rock up a cleaned line. Scramble round to the left up a vague tree-covered path to gain a well-used starting ledge back right.
1) 22m. Climb up rough tree root ground to gain the clean rock above. Climb the blunt arete on the right then move left onto the slab above and head up to a good ledge.
2) 23m. Tackle the clean strip up the slab above to a ledge just below the top. Finish easily up the gully. Descend by walking left to the gully beyond Merlin Buttress. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dialallama 28 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately there is a fair bit of route confusion in this area. Rockfax had called this route Boo boo in some books. This is the definite slab up and around to the left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately there is a fair bit of route confusion in this area. Rockfax had called this route Boo boo in some books. This is the definite slab up and around to the left
Stacy Hackner 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up.

Logged Ascents

334 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Ultimate Oggy 7

Grade: D ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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