UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
An overlooked route with some excellent and exciting climbing. Start right of Striptease near the far right end of the ledge. Climb to the right of the deep corner and then move back left into it. Climb the corner to the roof. Awkward moves lead out left to a perched position on the lip. Pull through the overlap and climb the slabbier terrain, keeping just right of the vegetation, to the tree belay/abseil station above Striptease. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A nice route with some involved climbing. Start from the same approach to The Fang and from below the fang walk right along the ledge until you are by the main pitch of One Step in the Clouds and below a wide prominent corner capped by a large roof, tree belay. Head up and right from the belay to gain a ledge and then work back left to belwo the main off-width corner. Climb the corner/slab to the right to reach the base of a slimmer groove that leads to a peg below the roof. Arrange some more gear here as the peg is pretty poor and make the awkward traverse left to the prow. Head straight up over the now much smaller roof to gain a small ledge above. There is a line of vegetation heading up the crag, you climb a line keeping to its right. Moving left as you get higher to belay on the same tree that the second pitch of Striptease belays on. Abseil off.

Top pitch variant: difficult finish at 6a up small groove to right

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
FANTAN B

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig y Llam)

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