UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

A good fingery direct on Daddy Cool.

From the start of DC fire straight up to the skanky old pegs passing some small wires and rps. Pull through the overlap with difficulty on the left side to gain jugs, then climb easier ground to the top as for DC.

Rachel Pearce & Tim Neil 21/Apr/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
rachelpearce01 23 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I placed as high gear as I could in the crack and then stepped down and left to reach the first peg directly underneath it. Tim thought you could carry more straight up the crack and reach first peg with a stretch out left. Watch out for big loose block on the right hand side of the overlap, you dont really need to use it and can avoid it pulling up and leftwards.
Show beta
βeta: I placed as high gear as I could in the crack and then stepped down and left to reach the first peg directly underneath it. Tim thought you could carry more straight up the crack and reach first peg with a stretch out left. Watch out for big loose block on the right hand side of the overlap, you dont really need to use it and can avoid it pulling up and leftwards.

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Aftershock

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)

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