Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.



Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The vegetated bay has one decent route on its left-hand side. Start below the open groove in the centre of the bay.
1) 4c, 12m. Climb the left side of the groove to reach a ramp. Go up here to reach a tree belay in groove.
2) 5c, 15m. Move up the ramp onto a pedestal. Climb the crack above to an overlap, pull over into a diagonal groove and climb this to a ledge belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Move up and right, and then traverse across right into the corner.
4) 5c, 12m. Climb the corner with difficulty. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pull My Daisy

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

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