UKC Logbook - 'Merlin Direct'

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.

1) 4c, 20m. Climb left up a crack to an overhang. Now make a hard move up and right up two cracks and into the base of a groove. An easier alternative is to step left at the overhang and then move up right along a ramp to the base of the groove. Climb the groove to an exciting exit left at the top to a belay.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the slab up and left to the base of a wide crack. Climb this to where it gets too wide and step out right onto the arete and follow easier ground up and left to a ledge below a steepening crack. Arrange gear and step left onto the headwall to gain a steep crack on the left which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Top Five HVSs In The UK? , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The V.S.+ Ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , York University Students path to greatness , Definitive *** Tremadog , Target Routes 2019/2020 , North Wales Summer 21' , Summer 2021 , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , Wales Trip - 2022 , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

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User	Date		Notes
Larry Benoy	15 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Lots of loose VERY blocks directly above belay at beginning of P2, take care	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Lots of loose VERY blocks directly above belay at beginning of P2, take care
ipfreely	15 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Superb route. I led P2 - Ross P1, which has a tricky section moving right toward the tree as the feet are a bit poor, P2 is an absolute peach, a couple of tricky moves on the slab just before the big crack, The crack itself is a lovely jamming romp, had to shuffle my blue cam up a couple of times, I would highly recommend Not putting any gear behind the big flake on the right or pulling on it, it’s not at all necessary. Up a bit more then The move left looks hard, but the thin crack over there is lovely finger locks. 1 tricky little move right at the top.
Show beta βeta: Superb route. I led P2 - Ross P1, which has a tricky section moving right toward the tree as the feet are a bit poor, P2 is an absolute peach, a couple of tricky moves on the slab just before the big crack, The crack itself is a lovely jamming romp, had to shuffle my blue cam up a couple of times, I would highly recommend Not putting any gear behind the big flake on the right or pulling on it, it’s not at all necessary. Up a bit more then The move left looks hard, but the thin crack over there is lovely finger locks. 1 tricky little move right at the top.
Emlyn Price	20 May, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Large loose flake at the top of the Crack which sounds hollow and seems to be Detatched, directly in line with belayer.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Large loose flake at the top of the Crack which sounds hollow and seems to be Detatched, directly in line with belayer.
g1m147	8 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Pitch 2.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitch 2.
Rowan Page	9 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Absolute quality and very steady on jugs	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Absolute quality and very steady on jugs