A great route with an open first pitch and a sensational and brutal roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner. 1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay.2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock to gain a large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack.3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet crack to a ledge.4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Getting established in the top crack is the crux, after which a good fight on the headwall leads to a tough top-out.4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish. © Rockfax
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))
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