Rockfax Description
A great route with an open first pitch and a sensational and brutal roof-crack. Start at the base of a gully, right of a corner.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep, crozzly wall 4m right of the corner. Move right at 10m to gain the arete, climb it to a ledge and a short corner on the right. Climb this and step left to a tree belay.
2) 10m. Climb the short, easy nose of rock to gain a large ledge. Walk rightwards along this and belay beneath the steep crack.
3) 5c, 6m. Climb the awkward and often-wet crack to a ledge.
4) 6a, 14m. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Getting established in the top crack is the crux, after which a good fight on the headwall leads to a tough top-out.
4a) The Neb - E2 5c, 18m. The original finish may provide a useful escape. Climb the steep crack above the belay to below the roof. Tiptoe rightwards under the roof until a smeary move gains the corner round to the right. Follow this to finish. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List , Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks , 50 cracks to Squamish , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , WideBoyz Crack School , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Crackageddon , Definitive *** Tremadog , Proper Cracks UK , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing


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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Capital Punishment

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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