This makes the most of the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a chimney.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the large chimney-groove past some alpine-esque blocks to gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 15m. From the far left side of the ledge gain a right trending ramp-line (steep at first) and continue to a good tree belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Pad up the slab on the right to gain a steep blocky section and a junction with other routes. Climb up to an overlap and stride left, passing an old peg, to gain a breath-taking horizontal traverse on positive finger-slots. Follow these to a tree on the left.
4) 4c, 12m. Easy ground leads to a thin crack which is followed to a ledge and tree.
5) 4c, 12m. Climb the large off-width crack on the right. Luckily a parallel crack on the left takes normal sized nuts. © Rockfax
H Banner + E Baldwin 27/Sep/1955.
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