UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
The original route of the buttress which follows a great line. Its best bits now feature in other routes but it is still worthwhile.
1) 4b, 25m. As for One Step in the Clouds (p.278 ).
2) 5c, 25m. Move up and right (as for Diadic) but continue rightwards on the lip of a roof. A short stiff pull over a roof as for The Weaver leads to a small ledge on the lip. Break right up the steep groove of Cream, which leads to the Vector cave.
3) 4b, 10m. Continue along the same diagonal line past the spike belay of Cream and right to the sloping ledge stance on Void. Keep going to a tree in the gully and abseil off, or...
4) 5c, 18m. Finish up The Snake for a more sustained 3-star experience. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

229 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 31 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 20
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Left Wall

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

Loading Notifications...