UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A varied route with commodious stances and a tricky first pitch.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the polished crack on the right of the slab, which eases at a ledge at half-height. Follow the easier crack up leftwards to a step left which leads to a large ledge.
1a) 15m. The technical thin crack can be avoided by climbing a groove on the right. This is more in keeping with the rest of the route.
2) 4a, 15m. Climb up behind the tree to the overhanging chimney on the left. Steep squirmy moves and bridging gain a slab and a large ledge system.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the slabby groove on the left to a wall. Turn right and follow easy ground to a final wide corner-crack (optional belay). A difficult move to enter the corner is followed by more slippery moves up the corner that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 takes the lovely slab starting at the centre then heading across to the right arete. A few variations possible at the grade - right arete all the way, straight up the crack or trend leftwards into Y Broga for the last bit. Belay at the big tree.
Pitch 2 Climb the pointy blocky overhang behind the tree. Can be greasy if wet. Continue up a bit to belay at another big tree.
Pitch 3 Climb the corner and wide crack above to emerge into sunlight again.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
locksbury 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Thuggy/thrutchy at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thuggy/thrutchy at the top.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 81
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 126
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Gully

Grade: S ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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