A varied route with commodious stances and a tricky first pitch.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the polished crack on the right of the slab, which eases at a ledge at half-height. Follow the easier crack up leftwards to a step left which leads to a large ledge.
1a) 15m. The technical thin crack can be avoided by climbing a groove on the right. This is more in-keeping with the rest of the route.
2) 4a, 15m. Climb up behind the tree to the overhanging chimney on the left. Steep squirmy moves and bridging gain a slab and a large ledge system.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the slabby groove on the left to a wall. Turn right and follow easy ground to a final wide corner-crack (optional belay). A difficult move to enter the corner is followed by more slippery moves up the corner that leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 takes the lovely slab starting at the centre then heading across to the right arete. A few variations possible at the grade - right arete all the way, straight up the crack or trend leftwards into Y Broga for the last bit. Belay at the big tree.
Pitch 2 Climb the pointy blocky overhang behind the tree. Can be greasy if wet. Continue up a bit to belay at another big tree.
Pitch 3 Climb the corner and wide crack above to emerge into sunlight again.
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