UKC Logbook - 'The Fang'

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great climbing up and left of the huge fang. Start at the top of the gully. The top pitch requires lots of small wires.
1) 5a, 25m. A bold step left from a block gains a crack which leads to a spike. Make a bold step left and climb a corner onto the arete. Move back right above the steepening and climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 32m. Make bold moves up the wall on the left to a thin crack and welcome gear (some place a side-runner above the belay). Make tenuous balancy moves left round the arete onto the wall. Move left again to a flake/spike. Then head up and right to reach a slim groove and follow this up the slab to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS , Definitive *** Tremadog , 32 By 32 , North Wales Summer 21' , Bold Tradprenticeship , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , North Wales To Do List

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
higherclimbingwales	20 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: The description for p2 is better in the Steve Long Guidebook - you need to step up from the belay, place a pretty good sz1 nut in the thin crack and step back down to get around the corner. The top pitch is bold but what gear there is is pretty good. Double ropes are a very good idea.
Show beta βeta: The description for p2 is better in the Steve Long Guidebook - you need to step up from the belay, place a pretty good sz1 nut in the thin crack and step back down to get around the corner. The top pitch is bold but what gear there is is pretty good. Double ropes are a very good idea.
jeanclaudehandjam	9 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Pitch2	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitch2
ipfreely	18 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arête to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route
Show beta βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arête to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route
alex.murray	31 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward
Andy Moles	22 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now?
MikePycroft	16 Mar, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now?
Show beta βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now?