UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great climbing up and left of the huge fang. Start at the top of the gully. The top pitch requires lots of small wires.
1) 5a, 25m. A bold step left from a block gains a crack which leads to a spike. Make a bold step left and climb a corner onto the arete. Move back right above the steepening and climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 32m. Make bold moves up the wall on the left to a thin crack and welcome gear (some place a side-runner above the belay). Make tenuous balancy moves left round the arete onto the wall. Move left again to a flake/spike. Then head up and right to reach a slim groove and follow this up the slab to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS , Definitive *** Tremadog , 33 By 33 , North Wales Summer 21' , Bold Tradprenticeship , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List , North Wales To Do List , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 27 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: From P2, there is an eye catching vertical block that has chalk on it. Sadly though the thing is loose. Would recommended to best protect the lead on P2, to build a Jesus Piece from P1's lead high up. Otherwise P2's lead, and potential fall, will fall straight on the belay.
Show beta
βeta: From P2, there is an eye catching vertical block that has chalk on it. Sadly though the thing is loose. Would recommended to best protect the lead on P2, to build a Jesus Piece from P1's lead high up. Otherwise P2's lead, and potential fall, will fall straight on the belay.
higherclimbingwales 20 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The description for p2 is better in the Steve Long Guidebook - you need to step up from the belay, place a pretty good sz1 nut in the thin crack and step back down to get around the corner. The top pitch is bold but what gear there is is pretty good. Double ropes are a very good idea.
Show beta
βeta: The description for p2 is better in the Steve Long Guidebook - you need to step up from the belay, place a pretty good sz1 nut in the thin crack and step back down to get around the corner. The top pitch is bold but what gear there is is pretty good. Double ropes are a very good idea.
jeanclaudehandjam 9 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch2
ipfreely 18 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arĂȘte to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arĂȘte to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route
alex.murray 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward
Andy Moles 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now?
MikePycroft 16 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now?

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 244
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 227
Votes cast 217
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great - Bow Combination

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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