Rockfax Description
Great climbing up and left of the huge fang. Start at the top of the gully.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a crack to a pinnacle. Move left and climb a corner onto the arete. Move back right above the steepening and climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 32m. Climb the wall on the left, then make hard moves round the arete onto the wall. Step left again then up and back right to reach the upper slab. Thin balancy climbing leads up this with small/micro-wires for protection. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS , Definitive *** Tremadog , 31 By 31 , North Wales Summer 21' , Bold Tradprenticeship , Llanberis/Ogwen/Tremadog List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jeanclaudehandjam | 9 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch2 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitch2 |
||||
| ipfreely | 18 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arête to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arête to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route |
||||
| alex.murray | 31 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward |
||||
| Andy Moles | 22 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now? |
||||
| MikePycroft | 16 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now? | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now? |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Avernus
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Trwyn y Gorlech (Lleyn))