Rockfax Description
Great climbing up and left of the huge fang. Start at the top of the gully.
1) 5a, 25m. Climb a crack to a pinnacle. Move left and climb a corner onto the arete. Move back right above the steepening and climb the corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 32m. Climb the wall on the left, then make hard moves round the arete onto the wall. Step left again then up and back right to reach the upper slab. Thin balancy climbing leads up this with small/micro-wires for protection. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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jeanclaudehandjam | 9 May |
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βeta: Pitch2 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch2 |
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ipfreely | 18 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arĂȘte to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route | ||
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 - really nice climbing, the move left isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, higher up i initially was staying on the left arĂȘte to reach the ledge but then noticed I needed to be a bit lower and to move right toward the corner which made much more sense, the stance ledge isn't as wide as was expecting & all the gear is in the right corner, bomber but a little cosy, Ross led P2 - comments say there is a missing hold now, I couldn't tell there it had come from but imo the pitch is E1 5b as the pro before getting around the corner is a poor micro wire & the moves are pretty necky. then it eases some but some spaced pro. Good route |
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alex.murray | 31 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward | βeta? | |
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βeta: Whisperings of E1 with a broken hold. Certainly placing a bit of essential gear at the begin of pitch two felt pretty awkward |
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Andy Moles | 22 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now? | βeta? | |
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βeta: The missing bit of rock on the traverse makes it harder and also makes getting gear in quite precarious - close to E1 now? |
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MikePycroft | 16 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now? | ||
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βeta: Pulled a hold off on on the traverse to the arete, at the start of the second pitch possibly 5b now? |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Trwyn y Gorlech (Lleyn))