UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
A brilliant route with a bit of everything and best enjoyed as one mega 50m pitch. Start at the base of the gully, as for Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate. Either solo or rope climb the first pitch of CC/ME directly up the polished gully/chimney to a belay directly below the right-hand side of the arete. The finger-crack up the short corner is desperate, so come in from the right and move left to the arete and climb this via a steep crack to a sloping ledge. A short groove leads up to another ledge (possible belay to reduce rope drag). Struggle up the wide crack above then move right to V-notch in the arete. A precarious move over this leads to easier climbing up the arete. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Stared Tremadog E1's , AMC Uni Ticklist , ICAS Climbing Club , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Extreme 2018 , Tremadog 2018/2019 , UK Holiday Plans , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Summer 2021 , Weird and Wonderful , Year 2 ticklist , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 14 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route, but tough for the grade. The lower fingercrack/corner is surely 5c and tough to onsight. Offwidth is also perplexing! Brilliant climbing throughout and very sustained.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route, but tough for the grade. The lower fingercrack/corner is surely 5c and tough to onsight. Offwidth is also perplexing! Brilliant climbing throughout and very sustained.
JManfredi 1 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The current Rockfax description says to skip the finger crack at the start. Though it is avoidable, and undoubtedly harder than the rest of the route (The moves are pushing 5C), I thought it was some of the best climbing. It would be a shame to miss it out IMO!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The current Rockfax description says to skip the finger crack at the start. Though it is avoidable, and undoubtedly harder than the rest of the route (The moves are pushing 5C), I thought it was some of the best climbing. It would be a shame to miss it out IMO!
eb202 3 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There are currently Jackdaws nesting in the flake. Backed off and had to leave a wire and quickdraw behind. Will pay for postage for their return, please PM me.
Show beta
βeta: There are currently Jackdaws nesting in the flake. Backed off and had to leave a wire and quickdraw behind. Will pay for postage for their return, please PM me.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 267
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 255
Votes cast 241
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Touch of Class

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Drws y Gwynt)

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