Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.
Warning
Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.
Dates: 1 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive!
Rockfax Description
A fine but underrated Tremadog outing. Start at the base of the buttress, just to the right of the prominent slabby corner with a wide crack.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the slab, passing a small overlap, to reach the large roof. Scuttle right and then up around the roof. Move left to the stance on the nose as for Valerie's Rib.
2) 5a, 25m. Move up and right to gain a sloping groove leading up right. At its end climb direct up to gain a hanging slab. Move back left towards the tree belay on Valerie's Rib.
3) 15m Scramble up and right to belay by a tree by a rock scar.
4) 5c, 22m. Traverse right across the rock scar to the base of a flake/groove. Layback up this and then take the smooth slab leading up and right to a small ledge. The steep wall and groove above provide an exposed finale. Top out left up the easier wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The old fixed gear on the crux pitch is no longer, making this quite a bit bolder than it used to be (top end e2, possibly e3). Take care with potential loose rock as mentioned in the guidebook.
The Tremadog 'V's' , North Wales Rock Graded List , Tremadog 2018/2019
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Lankcroft | 1 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the two pegs is now gone (the upper one). This protected the crux i think. I got a fair few small wires/brass/micro cams instead which felt fine, but I'm 6'5" and it was a stretch to get some of them! | ||
Show beta
βeta: One of the two pegs is now gone (the upper one). This protected the crux i think. I got a fair few small wires/brass/micro cams instead which felt fine, but I'm 6'5" and it was a stretch to get some of them! |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))