UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

Rockfax Description
A technical and bold first pitch gives access to the well-positioned upper flake-crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Start at the foot of the arete. Climb initially just on the right of the arete, switching back left after a couple of metres to reach a ledge and thin crack (this point can be gained more easily from the gully on the left). Arrange small wires then balance up the remaining arete to gain a large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove above the belay to a ledge. Make a steep move to gain a delightful slab/rib. Climb this to a grassy ledge below the final slab. Either climb straight up to the base of the leaning flake-crack and climb this to an exciting finish, or take the slabby arete on the right as for Mr. Ranger and traverse left to belay off the tree. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
emcawte 11 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1
βeta?
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βeta: Pitch 1
locksbury 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: So good, did it twice, AL P1, then P2. :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So good, did it twice, AL P1, then P2. :)
Stacy Hackner 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Warning: abundant nettles at the walk-up.
Felix Ottey 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route nice lead by my partner russ on the wet first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route nice lead by my partner russ on the wet first pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 137
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 126
Votes cast 115
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Direct Route

Grade: VS 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)

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