UKC

Restricted Access

Owned and managed by the BMC for climbers, there are very few issues at Bwlch y Moch. However climbers are asked to observe a few points. On no account should the fence at the top of the crag be crossed - all of the land at the crag top is privately owned, including the cliff top path and an agreement is in place with the neighbouring farmer for a permissve path along the cliff top. There is no descent either behind the crag or to the east. If choosing to abseil ensure that a sling is placed around the tree to prevent damage and that you do not cause inconvenience or a hazard to other climbers -"look before you chuck" is the motto here! None of the abseil slings or fixed belays are maintained or inspected by the BMC -so please ensure that you are satisifed with their safety and suitability before using! Camping is not allowed at the crag and there are no toilets at the site, closest public toilets are in Porthmadog itself.

 

Warning

Loose Block on Momentum - Reports of a large loose block on Momentum the route that has now replaced Shadrach.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny Owls frequently nest in the hollow tree on the route Axeover. Please avoid  this routes and the slab and also please do not use the abseil descent down this slab until the end of May- for your well-being as much as for the owls. They can be very aggressive! 

2 pitches. First pitch of Zukator with the second of the Grasper

Ticklists

Ultimate E3 ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Leicester 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Immaculate rock, good gear, varied and great climbing. Excellent if done in 1 pitch then a contender for one of the best at this grade at Tremadog.
Show beta
βeta: Immaculate rock, good gear, varied and great climbing. Excellent if done in 1 pitch then a contender for one of the best at this grade at Tremadog.
DMC 23 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Would recommend racking up before the scramble approach. Going up with walking boots and rucksacks was pretty sketchy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would recommend racking up before the scramble approach. Going up with walking boots and rucksacks was pretty sketchy.

Logged Ascents

110 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wilderness Grit

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Y Grisiau)

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