UKC

Rockfax Description
Grasper's bigger and harder brother gives desperately cramped bridging in a position of tremendous exposure. Start below a corner to the right of Grasper (Clapton's Crack).
1) 5c, 20m. Move leftwards into a niche and continue in the same direction to a small ledge. Make some hard moves up to another ledge in the centre of the wall. Some more testing climbing leads to overhangs level with the Grasper belay. Shuffle left to belay here.
2) 6b, 18m. Follow Grasper up to the groove and make tricky moves down and right to a ledge below the next groove over. Flamboyant shape-pulling, extreme effort and a lot of sweat and grunting seem to be the prerequisites for success. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Ultimate E4 ticklist , UK smearing corners

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave Musgrove Jnr 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The 3 pegs in the grove are all pretty rusty. Not really a problem as there’s other gear but a bit disconcerting. Left of the arête by the top peg you can place a lovely cam 1.
Show beta
βeta: The 3 pegs in the grove are all pretty rusty. Not really a problem as there’s other gear but a bit disconcerting. Left of the arête by the top peg you can place a lovely cam 1.

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E5
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High E4
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High E3
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Votes cast 13
High 6c
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Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
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Votes cast 7
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Short Stories

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Never Never Land)

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