One of the all-time Mid Wales classic routes that weaves its way up a stunningly-located buttress. The views and climbing are well worth the effort of both the wait for a dry period and the longish approach drive. The climb gets plenty of ascents and the rock is solid and clear of vegetation.
1) 25m. Climb the cleanest line up leftwards and then back right to a belay below steeper ground.
2) 8m. Move up and then rightwards to out-flank the steepest ground, before accessing good ledges above.
3) 14m. Traverse left along the ledge and continue to a ramp. Move up the ramp and then make an interesting traverse left across a slab before ascending to a good ledge.
4) 14m. Move left along the ledge and continue via a gap to moves slightly down, and then up and leftwards, to a belay at an overhung ledge close to the arete.
5) 8m. Move left around the arete - exposed - and climb steeply on good holds to easier ground and a belay on a tree.
6) 20m. Scramble up to, and then stand on, a large block. Make an awkward move up the corner above and finish up easier ground to grassy ledges on top of the buttress. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This is a popular route due to its inclusion in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book. A rising traverse left across the buttress. Start at the middle of the buttress at a break in the vegetation. The pitches are optional and many are done together, i.e. 1-2 and 3-4.
1) 25m. Follow the initial weakness towards a small tree and a large block. After the block climb a rightward-slanting slab to a short wall and take this to a good stance to the right.
2) 8m. Climb an obvious crack above to a bulge, and then traverse up a ramp to an obvious ledge where a nut-slot belay can be taken. Just above you there should be a small square block of stone protruding from the cliff face.
3) 15m. Follow the ledge leftwards around a bulge in the rock-face, passing a small spike to gain a short ramp. Go up this with little difficulty and move delicately across a slab to an obvious crack. Climb the crack to the next ledge and set up a belay.
4) 17m. Walk along the ledge and step over a gap to a stance under a small overhang. Carry on traversing left along the gradually slanting rock-face which has some good holds. Finally climb up to a ledge close to the arête under an overhanging wall.
5) 8m. Move to the arête and feel around the corner for the jug in a very exposed position. Climb on good holds to a large ledge and a tree to belay from.
6) 18m. The last pitch is a series of large square blocks. Climb up the blocks at first rightwards then leftwards towards a small tree in a crack. Finish by climbing the crack. A nut slot on the right and a thread on the left for anchors.
The descent is over the back and down the gully and can be slippery when wet!
Classic Rock, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, I want a Pasty!
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