Rockfax Description
A good route and the easiest way up this iconic slab. Start beneath the big corner of Barbarian, below a tree.
1) 4b, 20m Scramble up to the tree and move up and left towards the arete. Step left into a crack and follow this then move left to the tree-belay below the wide crack of Pincushion.
2) 4b, 10m. Climb the diagonal flake/ramp on the left to belay on a tree in the groove below an overhang.
3) 5b, 40m. Move up the groove to the overhang, take the right-hand groove and make a tricky pull onto the slab. Climb up and right to gain a hanging corner. Make a move up this to arrange a high runner above a thin break. Step back down and foot-traverse the break-line on blind holds to reach the upper crack of Pincushion. Finish up this.
3a) Great Western, VS 4c - Climb the upper groove to join PMP and finish up this.
3b) Harvey Proctor's Spanking Slab, E2 5c - Possibly the best finish to this route. Follow the original to the upper crack of Pincushion. Move up and left through the groove in the roof to reach the upper slab. Head straight up this to a step left by a high break before continuing to the top.
3c) Quakerman Finish, E2 5c - Follow Harvey Proctor... over the roof, then move right to the crack before tackling the final arete on the right overlooking Pincushion. © Rockfax

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