UKC

Restricted Access

Access can be sensitive due to recent publicity given to the nearby gorge in mainstream and social media and issues to do with commercial group activities. It is environmentally sensitive and also has historical features that the NT wish to protect. 

To avoid any future access issues, climbers should avoid using the riverside walkway and ladders. 

Parking should be in the layby on the A470, some 500m west of the crag. Do not park on the grass verge adjacent to the entrance gate/paths. 

Rockfax Description
An esoteric classic with balancy climbing on small positive holds. Start by a flake, just right of a diagonal groove. Bridge up this as high as you can before committing to the wall above. Avoid going left too early and stay on the face until near the top. Step left onto a rib and move up to an overlap in the now vertical groove. Move left across this - high side runner in the groove - and climb up to the base of a short diagonal groove. Arrange gear and commit to the wall above, aiming for a juggy ledge and small spike. Easy ground remains to the top. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Niall Grimes 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A good route on great rock. Generally well protected but goey at the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route on great rock. Generally well protected but goey at the top.
geoff b 17 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The route has been extensively cleaned recently, which made the gear placements easier to find. :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route has been extensively cleaned recently, which made the gear placements easier to find. :-)

Logged Ascents

56 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Rhiw Goch

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 21 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Snake

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

Loading Notifications...