UKC

65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route of the crag, great climbing up a big bulky buttress on lovely rock. .
1) 4b, 32m. Climb the groove that leads to the overhangs and continue up until it gets too difficult. Then make a move round the rib on the right to a delicate foot-traverse right to a groove and soon, a large ledge and big fat tree belay. The direct line without the detour is Creagh Dhu Wall Direct, VS.
2) 4b, 30m. Drop down and hand-traverse the huge flake out left then climb the face to a small ledge (possible stance on One Step.). Step up and make hard moves into the polished slanting groove. Finish either side of the roof above this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A wonderful route. Head up and right to large ledge (belay). Then fabulously exposed 2nd pitch goes out left along the huge flake. Head up obvious line above, good holds. Tricky crux, entering the groove near top. 3 stars.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, North wales road to ruins HVS, Ultimate HS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, AMC Uni Ticklist, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, Libby Peter's HS Hit List, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Tremadog, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 2020/21 Trips, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
JGriffiths47 6 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Moved the ab tat on the intermediate abseil station to the rearmost tree and off the dead rotting one.
βeta?
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βeta: Moved the ab tat on the intermediate abseil station to the rearmost tree and off the dead rotting one.
pancakeandchips 22 Aug Show βeta
βeta: You can get down in two abs with a single 60m rope. The tree used the mid ab point isn't looking too healthy though, could be backed up to the one behind it with a bit more static rope?
βeta?
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βeta: You can get down in two abs with a single 60m rope. The tree used the mid ab point isn't looking too healthy though, could be backed up to the one behind it with a bit more static rope?
Michael Hellyer 11 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Careful rope work required to avoid rope drag on traverse pitches, especially the start of P2.
βeta?
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βeta: Careful rope work required to avoid rope drag on traverse pitches, especially the start of P2.
Daveyc86 23 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Though it requires a short (20m) bush wack at the top - the walk off is really pleasent after that and probably takes the same, if not less time than a double abseil. Not sure why people bemoaned the walk off - seems easier than ab and scree field walk to me.
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βeta: Though it requires a short (20m) bush wack at the top - the walk off is really pleasent after that and probably takes the same, if not less time than a double abseil. Not sure why people bemoaned the walk off - seems easier than ab and scree field walk to me.
Francis Hardy 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Ab tat at the top is starting to look quite ropy, might need replacing sometime soon.
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βeta: Ab tat at the top is starting to look quite ropy, might need replacing sometime soon.
SimonWooden 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At least two chics in nest. We hadn't seen this post but backed off (One Step in the Crowds - same line here).
βeta?
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βeta: At least two chics in nest. We hadn't seen this post but backed off (One Step in the Crowds - same line here).
Danliu 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bird's nest on first pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Bird's nest on first pitch
Louise Bullock 22 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pair of tawny owls nesting on pitch 1. (One flew out right by my head and scared the living daylights out of me). Perhaps best to avoid this route until later in year when eggs have hatched so as not to scare owls away.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pair of tawny owls nesting on pitch 1. (One flew out right by my head and scared the living daylights out of me). Perhaps best to avoid this route until later in year when eggs have hatched so as not to scare owls away.

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Route of Interest

Christmas Curry / Micah Eliminate

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))
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